The adventures of two old farts.
We’re a couple living on Vancouver Island who decided 5 years ago that when we had our 60th birthdays we were going to walk a Camino. Well, the time has arrived and we’ve been been busy walking all over our neighbourhood trails, roads and parks in preparation to walk the Primitivo in northeastern Spain.
Our blog is to share our experience with family and friends back home. Hope you enjoy reading about our adventures!
Sep 14, Pedrouzo to Santiago
21.6 km, 4.5 hrs
The plan was to start very early, 4am, so we could arrive at Monte do Gozo just as the sun was rising. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_do_Gozo
Ramona chose to walk to Santiago on her own for a variety of reasons. The four of us left right on time and enjoyed the darkness under a full moon. As temperatures have risen here again we were warm enough in shorts and a long sleeve tee. Headlamps were only needed when the darkness enveloped us in the various wooded portions of trail.
A light breakfast of yogurt, bananas and juice had started us off fine but as 7am arrived such joy to spot an open bar both for a bathroom break as well as coffee 😉.
It was still five kilometres into the city. There were already a lot of Pilgrims in the square as they arrive from all directions of the various Camino routes entering the city. We took a while to absorb it all, then photos of us and the Cathedral. It was much larger than I imagined and I look forward to seeing some of it in the next couple of days.
So amazing to stand here! Eventually we headed off to receive our Compostela (completion certificate). We attended the Pilgrim Mass at noon in one of the smaller churches – packed with pilgrims!
We’ll meet the group for dinner at 7:30. Hope you all have enjoyed sharing our travelling adventure with us.
Adiós a todos.
Sep 13, Arzua to Pedrouzo
19.5 km, 4 hrs
We left in the dark at 6:30 this morning. Found a great breakfast stop a km down the road then set off on the Camino about 7:15. The sun rises here about 8am. As with yesterday we have no clouds and hot weather again. Long sleeve shirt and shorts are enough even at this early hour. Soon we saw the beautiful rays of the sun
As we walked through the woods a couple of Spanish owls were hooting. So magical!
We passed a Bar with words of wisdom posted and then another with more than one customer
The Camino today has become a highway of people. The paths and trails are wide. We are passing people and others are passing us. There are many bicycles and even a few are going to Santiago by horse back.
Because this is a short day we arrived at the Mirador do Pedrouzo at 12:30. It’s lovely to stop early and have a rest afternoon, then a terrific Spanish lunch (paella, etc) before a break and head off to the local church for another pilgrim mass at 7pm.
The number of Pilgrims attending the mass must have been 200. It was astounding to see so many!
We’ve hit the hay early as we plan to walk under tomorrow’s moonlight and see the sunrise shine on Santiago.
Sep 12, Sobrado to Arzua
21.4 km, 4 hrs 45,
The Monastery was very different. First, we slept in till 7 because it was so dark in our room and no one else was moving early to wake us. But once awake up quick as we planned to attend Vespers, a sung Eucharist at 7:30. The monks singing was beautiful in the small chapel and we were the only pilgrims attending.
A much later start than usual but not far along we found free apples
2nd breakfast was at Bar Rico where the server appeared very disconcerted by a large group of peregrinos. Shortly after in the town of Boimorto we passed the local police station. Someone remembered that the stations would give stamps for your “Pilgrim’s passport”. In we trouped and the officer was happy to oblige us including a group photo.
Today’s trail was a lot of road walking. Although quiet and rural, we were in the warm sun a lot. And today it has warmed up incredibly, 28c. I adopted Ramona’s method of keeping the sun off my ears and neck.
We are presently in the albergue Don Quijote, we found a great place for dinner, have done the usual load of washing, packed our bags for tomorrow, soon tea time and an early night.
Sep 11, Friol to Sobrado
26.3 km, 6 hrs 20 min
A good nights sleep and we were heading out on the 2nd day of the Camino Verde. This is an unofficial route and is not marked by the very obvious shells and yellow arrows. Instead, one is walking trails through forest and field with very little road and always on the watch for green arrows painted on trees, sign posts, sometimes rocks on the ground. It required all of us to keep a look out whenever we came upon intersections to make sure we headed the correct way. What is nice about this route is one avoids the crowd of the Camino Frances for another 2 days.
Eucalyptus Plantation
It was so exciting to spot not just one but 4 foxes on our early morning walk! The first crossed the road ahead of us and only Doug and I saw it. But then Doug spotted one in a field 15 minutes later. As we paused to look we realized it was 2 full grown foxes with black bushy tails and at least 1 kit. They played in the field for a few minutes, too far away for our cameras but still an exciting thing for us to see.
At times we paused to pick blackberries on the side of the track. Much smaller than the ones growing wild on the Island but still sweet and tasty. Nearing the four hour mark we were in a lovely pine forest (natural, not plantation) and found a spot for another picnic lunch. There were few bars or cafes on our green route.
We eventually came to a small town, stopped at the bar for a cold drink, a radler tasted great! And another hour we arrived in Sobrado at the Monastery.
This is an amazing church, construction beginning in the 900’s. We have rooms that feel like they are in the basement, dark, more bunk beds not very many plugs for electronics 😜.
We cooked our own dinner tonight and enjoyed it in the large kitchen/eating area. Then we got to go inside the Cathedral that is under renovation. Simply astounding to be allowed to look inside!
Sep 10, Lugo to Friol
28.3 km, 7 hrs
Jamie and I have decided to stick with the group and walk the Camino Verde (Green route) to a Monastery in Sobrado. It means we will miss the crowds that begin in Melide as the Primitivo meets the Frances route. It was difficult to find the information on line but once detective Jamie found a good link we were good to go. Once in Sobrado we will continue on to Santiago via the Camino Norte.
Before leaving the city of Lugo this morning we walked the Roman wall that encircles the old town. So cool. And it’s used for walking, running, people going to work, etc.
And then there was the old Roman bridge to cross on our way out of town with the city now in the distance.
The split between the Camino Verde and Primitivo was found and we were off on our new adventure.
The next 1.5 hrs was an amazing trek along the Rio Mera; single track, forested, bridges, beautiful reflections, an old mill; and no one else around. When the track ended we were in the tiny village of O Veral with another sweet church.
Rest stop was a nice place just off the side of the road we were now on. Hardly a car went by. Carrying on we came across a recommended lunch stop, Taverna Do Acadio. Oh the meal we were served! Homemade soup, pot roast and potatoes main course (like mom’s home cooking!) and local quince with fresh cheese for dessert with, of course, fresh vino tinto. Stuffed! At this point we had to say goodbye to Guillermo as he had to be in Santiago that evening. He had a flight to Malaga to return to work as this was just a break for him. Wonderful man! He practised his English with us and helped us with our Spanish–ok, not me so much 😁
Now five, we carried on for another hour before arriving in the small town of Friol. Rooms had been booked in a pension. We didn’t need dinner after our lunch. But the local pool had a bar with free tapas. Perfecto to round out the evening.
Adios Guillermo 👋
Sep 9, O Cadavo to Lugo
32 km, 7 hrs 20 min
The gang (band? not sure what to call we 6) left in the darkness at 6:30. Today we planned to add some detours or as the Primitivo calls them “complimentarios” to our route. There was mist and a few rain drops but Doug, the navigator had the map. Detour 1 found, we arrived at the first church about 7:45. Neat to see it in the half dark. The second church on the detour was constructed as a monastery in the 1500’s
It was beautiful and was actually open! Bonus! Next stop was the town of Castro Verde where we stocked up on some picnic items. Our trail continued along a beautiful forested path, songbirds in the trees. This was our second detour which had Roman ruins dating from 1590.
And next was the Church of San Salvador, another old ruin, also unopened but a broken door we could peer through – and our angel Ramona sang. She has a beautiful voice and the echo in the church made it sound like a choir.
Corn was being cut for silage in one field, we saw a rock quarry where the local granite must be cut as it is everywhere, and eucalyptus plantations were all around us.
Time for our picnic in a farmer’s field, so yummy.
Soon after this our trail. became a dry dusty unshaded gravel track. The last few kilometres to Lugo were tiring, plus we’d walked so far already. How strange to find ourselves in a city, surrounded by the hustle and bustle, traffic lights, cars, etc. But enjoyable at the same time.
It’s nice to have so many photographers in the group 😉. We can share all the best ones on WhatsApp.
Sustenance was found after the long day walking, a walk around the city and ending in another restaurant where we sent Victoria our love from Spain on her special day 💕
So it seems there is an issue with the font for the previous post of September 7th which we have been trying to correct for a few days…so we’ll try again.
NUTS: (noun) 1. a fruit consisting of a hard or rough shell around an edible kernel. 2. a foolish, eccentric or crazy person. 3. an idea or concept with little merit.
Most of you know that I was not totally keen on the concept of our current holiday. I had serious reservations about the concept of traveling to a country where we did not speak the language, did not know where we were going day by day and know idea where we would get food or even sleep. For my entire career I was schooled and practised the art of planning, cost estimates, budgets, plans, schematics and commissioning. The thought of embarking on a “holiday” where we would just “wing it” just wasn’t on.
But….. I was repeatedly told by many that “The Camino will provide”. “Trust in the Camino”.
I awoke abruptly in the middle of the night prior to Day 5 and our ascent of the highly respected “Hospitales Route” (a summit thru a mountain pass at 1200 meters with challenging weather) with the word “NUTS” prominent in my head. What the hell were we doing? This is “nuts”! But after some thought what stuck with me was; In the winter of 1944 Allied forces were bogged down in the Ardennes in what we now know as “The Battle of The Bulge”. The German commander of the area offered surrender terms to an American officer who quickly replied with a one word answer….. “nuts”. The German commander translated the response (the edible nut) and was completely confused. He did not understand that what was meant was that to the Americans the thought of giving up, not completing their mission or abandoning what they came to do was just not going to happen. And then what about a “nut” itself; it has a hard shell but inside it provides nourishment, essential nutrients and is pleasing to eat. These ideas stuck with me that night and the following day because as I have come to learn they are both metaphors for the entire Camino experience itself.
I am completely overcome with the fact that by Day 3 we have become a “family” with 4 complete strangers that we walk, talk, eat and sleep with. There is Doug, a hydrogeologist from Montreal with whom I share the same Scouts leader name (Bagherra), Roger the skilled pipefitter from Wisconsin who composes Haiku as he walks, Guillermo the Spanish architect/artist who sketches and paints watercolours as he walks and Ramona the Romanian tutor who sings like an angel. These people have come to understand me as well as those I have known my entire life. They nourish, support, challenge, heal, laugh and love unconditionally. I am literally blown away.
Today we walked into Galicia and are now thru the halfway point of 160km. What is ahead over the next week is unknown, but that is not important as it is clear that we will all leave Spain changed people because of the Camino.
So it is true; The Camino does provide and will continue to in ways unknown and yet to be revealed.
Buen Camino. With love, j
Sep 8, A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo
25km, 6 hrs 15 min.
Another cool start to a beautiful sunny day. I actually feel a little sunburnt from the afternoon’s walk.
We had some beautiful shaded forest to walk through leaving Fonsagrada; cool breezes, the early morning rising sun and a few steep hills,
Eventually we came upon picnic tables, took a break and shed some layers. A high point was achieved and we found some old stone artifacts from another Hospitales (place of refuge) long ago. As we got over the rise the temperatures cooled again for about the next hour. We saw our first Spanish timber harvest where the pine logs were all laid out ready to be picked up later this week. As it was Sunday it was nice they weren’t working. When the lunch stop came into view there was excitement all around.
Huge ham and cheese sandwiches were consumed with each plate containing a whole tomato we could slice and add. Jamie had scavenged some wood scraps and built a little sailboat. As we left the lunch spot a small boy with his mum was spotted so the boat was set free to sail somewhere fun.
From this point some huge steep climbs arrived. They were definitely killer hills!!
Once we reached the top a cold drink stop was required. We still had some uphill to conquer but it became a little less steep. Aah, but the downhill after…😬. The sun was shining, there wasn’t much shade and our last hour was quite warm. It was a relief to see the buildings of O Cadavo. Shower time !!
Sep 7, Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada
26.75 km, 6 hrs 50 min
That was an interesting municipal albergue last night. Only 5€ but the beds were close together and when one rises we all rise … no sleeping in, in dormitory conditions 🤪
Breakfast was at Cafe Jaime (had to go there) then we were off in the early morning light:
It has truly become a magical experience to just walk and see what the day will bring. Sometimes we all walk together and other times we walk in ones, two’s or three’s. Usually there is a coffee stop picked and we wait for all to arrive to enjoy our break as a group. These last days it has been cool to start but by 10:00 it is warm and layers are shed. There has been wind blowing every time another rise is climbed but often it drops as we get over to the other side heading down. Walking is full of mindful moments as the group chats one with another sharing stories of family, children, experiences, cooking recipes, spiritual experiences, etc. You name it and we’ve talked it. It’s hard to believe we were all strangers 7 days ago. There has been laughter, camaraderie, singing, and, of course, walking.
Another windy rise
Looking back to see the group slowly climbing.
Earlier pilgrim messages found on the Way.
Tonight, our friend Guillermo who is Spanish from Malaga, took us to a restaurant in A Fonsagrada that apparently serves the best Galician octopus. And it was amazing!! Plus the restaurant served its own special Galician wine by the jug. It was delicious, sweet but not too sweet, not clear but with some sediment. We enjoyed two jugs and the fellows bought a third bottle to enjoy with the rest of our vegetarian meal at the albergue.
A short walk about town was required but the temperature cools quickly in the evening. It was decided to attend another service at the town church. Another pilgrim blessing was given but nothing will compare to yesterday’s special feel in the small town of Grandas de Salime.
Sep 6, Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
22 km, 6.5 hrs
We’ve stayed out too late (tapas) so a short post for today. Early start from the hotel in Berducedo (7:15), quick breakfast at the bar and we were off before 8am to A Mesa. It was about an hours walk mostly on the road. From here we continued on a steep climb, again mostly road but the hillside we climbed had wind turbines on top. It was cool this morning and was the first time we both had on pants and jackets. Jamie even had his buff on. There was a strong wind blowing.
Once we were over the ridge we began the steep and steady descent to the Grandas de Salime hydroelectric dam. Finally on rocky trail, we passed through an old forest fire area with new vegetation appearing. We could look across at the ascent we would do on the other side. 
Shortly after noon we came out on the road and had our first real look at the dam and the old buildings that were the concrete plant for the dam construction in the late 1950’s.
About 1pm the group stopped at the Grandas de Salime Hotel for an amazing lunch on the terrace above a “dam fine view”.
This was a nice long break here before heading for the town of Grandas de Salime where we checked into the albergue. Ramona discovered there was a pilgrim service at the church in the town centre. That was an amazing experience as we pilgrims were invited to the front of this church for a special blessing. 
We ended our evening on an enjoyable note of tapas and local cider.
